How to Fix Loose Saya
Over periods of sheathing and un-sheathing katanas, the saya sometimes become very loose. Like if you were to tip the sword over to where the blade points upwards, the sword would just fall out. As with a new katana, the sword kind of locks into place in the scabbard or (saya). If the saya has already become loose, is there a way to fix or correct this problem?
Absolutely! Here I will tell you how to fix a loose saya. We have two ways.
First method
Preparation:
- wood veneer edging
- lighter/match
- narrow flathead screwdriver
- scissors
- your sword
Step 1: Familiarize Yourself With the Saya
Start by drawing the sword and setting the blade aside in a safe place. If you look into the mouth of the saya, you will see that the width of the opening tapers. The mune (rear) side of the blade is wider and the ha (edge) side of the blade is narrow. The shim will be applied to the ha (edge) side of the saya.
There is no need to shim the entire length of the scabbard. The blade doesn't actually contact the inside of the sheath. The only point of contact should be between the habaki (the metal collar at the base of the blade) and the saya.
Step 2: Cut the Wood Veneer Shim
Use a pair of sharp scissors or a knife to cut a piece of the wood veneer edging. The strip should be as long as the habaki and as wide as the ha (edge) side of the saya opening.
Step 3: Attach the Shim to the Saya
There is heat activated glue on the back of the wood veneer. Insert the shim into the saya port on the ha (edge) side. Use a lighter, candle, or other heat source to heat the narrow-blade flat-head screwdriver. It doesn't have to be hot-it should be as hot as an iron. After the screwdriver is heated, use it to apply pressure to the wooden shim. After about 10 seconds, remove the screwdriver and put the sword back into its saya. Putting the blade back in the sheath is the best way to apply uniform pressure to the shim as the adhesive sets.
Step 4: Job Complete!
After the adhesive has set, you can test the fit of the sword. It should be held firmly in place but not be difficult to draw. If it is a little too tight, it will loosen naturally over time. Avoid sanding or filing the inside of the sheath as residue could end up scratching the blade.
Traditionally, shims were fashioned of the same wood as the saya and attached with a rice paste. The wood veneer edging and its adhesive are usually soft enough to avoid damaging the blade.
Second method
Preparation:
- wood powder
- file
- glue
- your sword
Step 1: Add Wood Powder to the Saya
Put some wood powder on the mune side of saya. You don't need to put too much or too deep. The strip should also be as long as the habaki and as wide as the ha (edge) side of the saya opening.
Step 2: Add Glue on the Powder
Add some glue (Elmers, wood glue, anything will do), also not too much. Wait until it gets dry.
Step 3: File the surface to flat
When the glue gets dry, use a file to polish it to be as smooth as the side. Sheath the blade in. If you still feel loose, repeat this until the blade fits tightly in the saya.
Here is a video of the second method for your reference:
https://youtube.com/shorts/gUF4kagK_hA
Absolutely! Here I will tell you how to fix a loose saya. We have two ways.
First method
Preparation:
- wood veneer edging
- lighter/match
- narrow flathead screwdriver
- scissors
- your sword
Step 1: Familiarize Yourself With the Saya
Start by drawing the sword and setting the blade aside in a safe place. If you look into the mouth of the saya, you will see that the width of the opening tapers. The mune (rear) side of the blade is wider and the ha (edge) side of the blade is narrow. The shim will be applied to the ha (edge) side of the saya.
There is no need to shim the entire length of the scabbard. The blade doesn't actually contact the inside of the sheath. The only point of contact should be between the habaki (the metal collar at the base of the blade) and the saya.
Step 2: Cut the Wood Veneer Shim
Use a pair of sharp scissors or a knife to cut a piece of the wood veneer edging. The strip should be as long as the habaki and as wide as the ha (edge) side of the saya opening.
Step 3: Attach the Shim to the Saya
There is heat activated glue on the back of the wood veneer. Insert the shim into the saya port on the ha (edge) side. Use a lighter, candle, or other heat source to heat the narrow-blade flat-head screwdriver. It doesn't have to be hot-it should be as hot as an iron. After the screwdriver is heated, use it to apply pressure to the wooden shim. After about 10 seconds, remove the screwdriver and put the sword back into its saya. Putting the blade back in the sheath is the best way to apply uniform pressure to the shim as the adhesive sets.
Step 4: Job Complete!
After the adhesive has set, you can test the fit of the sword. It should be held firmly in place but not be difficult to draw. If it is a little too tight, it will loosen naturally over time. Avoid sanding or filing the inside of the sheath as residue could end up scratching the blade.
Traditionally, shims were fashioned of the same wood as the saya and attached with a rice paste. The wood veneer edging and its adhesive are usually soft enough to avoid damaging the blade.
Second method
Preparation:
- wood powder
- file
- glue
- your sword
Step 1: Add Wood Powder to the Saya
Put some wood powder on the mune side of saya. You don't need to put too much or too deep. The strip should also be as long as the habaki and as wide as the ha (edge) side of the saya opening.
Step 2: Add Glue on the Powder
Add some glue (Elmers, wood glue, anything will do), also not too much. Wait until it gets dry.
Step 3: File the surface to flat
When the glue gets dry, use a file to polish it to be as smooth as the side. Sheath the blade in. If you still feel loose, repeat this until the blade fits tightly in the saya.
Here is a video of the second method for your reference:
https://youtube.com/shorts/gUF4kagK_hA